Peace In a Bowl of Tea
I like a nice cup of
tea in the morning for the start of the day
you see,
and at half past eleven.
Well, my idea of heaven is a nice cup of tea.
I like a nice cup of tea for my dinner,
and a nice cup of tea with by tea.
And when it’s time for bed, there is a
lot to be said,
for a nice cup of tea.
These few lines enhance the writer's fondness
for his first choice of beverage – tea.
This script was composed by no less a person
than the famous British writer, Sir A.P.Herbert
at a time when the habit of tea drinking was
constantly on the rise.
To the Chinese who discovered the tea plant,
and to the Japanese who refined the art of tea
drinking, it has long ceased to be neither a
habit, nor an art. It has become a way of life.
This basic way of tea could be explained with
four Japanese characters.
“WA” means harmony,
“KET” means respect
“SAI” means purity, both worldly
and spiritual, and
“JAKU” could be translated to mean
tranquillity or peace of mind.
Tradition has it that the powdered green tea
that Zen monks brought when they returned from
their studies in China in the thirteenth century
was the beginning of the tea ceremony in Japan
that is practised even now. It would however
appear strange today, in the world of high speed,
fast tempo, and the like, that so much time,
labour and energy are spent on this slow but
dignified ritual.
The search for nutritional values in tea started
long after the people had developed a taste
for tea. It took an extended duration for research
scientists to work out any tolerable discoveries
on the links between tea consumption and its
therapeutic values. Tea was accepted in the
world purely for its accepted goodness.
The tea drinking habit, thanks to the Seventh
Duke of Bedford, has now been well founded on
the Western sector, though lacking in all these
original rituals. Let’s revert to the
all-important subject regarding the nutritious
value of tea. In a publication, “All About
Tea,” William H. Ukers has indexed a digest
of scientific, medical and popular opinions
expressed by competent authorities, collected
from newspapers periodicals, and from research
papers presented by renowned scientists. Reproduced
below are some of the conclusions arrived at
by those distinguished personalities.
Tea as a wholesome
drink - Tea is very wholesome, since
it produces many good effects but only a few
bad ones. We see some people who will drink
ten or twelve dishes a day without any hurt
at all. It is good for the disorders of the
brain and nerves. It refreshes the spirit. It
agrees at all times with any age and constitution.
- Doctor Louis Lemery
Tea an aid to the liver - We
may say of these nitrogenous compounds, caffeine
or theine, that they are food for the liver,
since they contain the elements by the presence
of which that organ is enabled to perform its
functions. - Baron Justus Von Liebig
The psychological value of tea
- It has a strange influence over mood, a strange
power of changing the look of things, and changing
it for the better, so that we can believe and
hope and do under the influence of tea what
we should otherwise give up in discouragement
and despair; feeling under the influence of
which tissues wear rapidly. - The Lancet
London
The drink of sobriety - Tea,
not only contributes to the sobriety of a nation,
but it imparts all the charms to society which
spring from the enjoyment of conversation, without
the excitement that follow after strong drink.
-C.W. Chancellor
The drink of pleasure and of health
- In the forenoon, or heat of the day, a kind
cup of tea is more cooling, calming, and invigorating
than wine. It is not so soon followed by the
reaction that craves repetition of the stimulant
to the injury of health. - Gordon Stables
Tea a nerve nutrient - In reference
to my suggestion to give children tea, I may
explain that it is done intentionally. Making
allowances for a few exceptions, there is probably
no real objection to their use even at early
ages. They rouse the dull, calm the excitable,
prevent headaches, and fit the brain for work.
To stigmatise these invaluable articles of diet
as “nerve stimulants” is to me an
erroneous expression. They have a right to be
ranked as “nerve nutrients." - Sir
Jonathan Hutchinson
Tea cures brain fag - I cannot
understand how there can be any discussion upon
the effect of tea and the result to the nervous
system. In moderation, tea helps the average
person. A woman spends the day in hunting bargains,
and gets home in the evening thoroughly worn
out. She is in that condition is known as “brain
fag," and has resort to a cup of tea. Within
a few minutes she feels refreshed and has a
characteristic sense of well-being. - George
Lloyd Magruder
Tea promotes cerebration -
Tea, coffee and cocoa, are true promoters of
increased cerebration, but alcohol in whatever
form, whether in the shape of the delicate and
seductive champagne or vulgar pot house beer,
is a paralytic from the first. Tea and its fellows
promote the action of the mental faculties.
Alcohol on the other hand, is a depressant.
- William Stirling
The stuff to feed the troops
- In the war that I witnessed in Manchuria,
two nations were engaged which are known as
tea drinkers. The exertion they put forth no
one can appreciate who had not seen them. In
the summer the heat was humid and stiffing,
and alternated with torrential rain, so that
the roads were always muddy and marching became
a painful fatigue. In the great battles, the
troops marched and fought day after day, night
after night, were always under fire, had little
food and little sleep, they were terribly fatigued,
but never collapsed. They brewed a cup of tea
and on they went. Nothing quite so satisfied
thirst on a hot day as a cup of tea. Nothing
quite so well stifled a growling stomach, so
quickly warmed up a frame stiffened with cold
as a glass of tea. When the saddle without food,
for thirty-six hours or more, nothing so restored
the physical balance as a glass of tea, and
my first care in getting into camp was to have
my canteen filled with weak tea. - Captain
Carl Reichmann
Tea for the aged - Tea is mildly
stimulating to the nervous system, refreshes
the mental machinery, and relives bodily fatigue.
For headaches arising from “run down nerves”
it often affords prompt surcease. Many elderly
people find tea particularly satisfying and
soothing after reaching a period of life when
the functional activity of the stomach is gradually
weakened. At this time, when “the shadows
are lengthening” and the digestive department
finds difficult in furnishing a sufficiency
of heat and energy units, generous libations
of tea often cheer up the fagging stomach and
intestines, enabling them to perform their necessary
tasks. - George M. Niles
More mental and physical work
- Even in small doses, one cup of tea or coffee
per day acts as a stimulant to nerve or muscle
tissue. The general results of the action of
caffeine upon the nervous system are to increase
the reflex irritability of the cerebral cortex.
Mental functions primarily improve. Ideas flow
more rapidly. The threshold stimulus of all
the senses is lowered. The sense of fatigue
is lessened. Wakefulness supervenes, and mental
and physical inertia is dissipated. - Wilse
Robinson.
Tea the saviour of civilisation
- Tea has been one of the saviours of humanity.
I verily believe that but for the introduction
of tea and coffee, Europe might have drunk itself
to death. - Sir James Crichton-Browne.
Tea induces tranquillity -
The famous Canadian doctor now comes out to
plead for afternoon tea as a tranquilliser,
an inducer of the meditative, the inventive,
the creative frame of mind. There is something
vital beneath the trivial teacup chatter. Afternoon
tea, he regards as a valuable promoter of efficiency
of the most practical hard-headed sort. It has
been tried out on factories, large officers,
department stores, banks (Canadian or English,
and to some slight degree in America, it has
gained foothold) and greater output and better
quality of work results from the twenty minutes
breaks for refreshments.
At a tea party Dr Benting aptly remarked that
it was one of the best and most grateful promoters
of friendly understanding. The brief period
of peaceful meditation before we put the finishing
touches to our daily task is a habit and a ritual
of priceless value, he argues. It is not merely
a pleasure, it is a psychic balance of most
vital potency.
If there is one thing we Americans need, it
is a few minutes off each day to take time to
think, to ask ourselves why all the hurry, wither
all the excitement is leading us. I like the
idea of the 4 o’clock recess. –
F.G.Banting
A necessity of modern life
- Tea may be regarded as almost a necessity
of modern life, a stimulating and harmless beverage,
giving a fillip to a jaded brain and heart at
the time of the day when it is most needed.
It forms a most welcome change in flavour from
coffee, and no ill effects accrue, neither nerving,
cardiac, or dyspeptic, if properly prepared
from good quality leaves and taken in moderation.
- J. Campbell
Tea drinking promotes slenderness
- Tea and coffee drinking causes much less injury
than over-eating. An important thing to consider
in these days when young and old are desirous
of a svelte appearance, and when overeating
is the commonest vice of each group. Indeed,
these beverages lessen the sense of hunger and
thus, to some extent, prevent overeating. -
Hugh A.McGuigan
Too many alarmists - I do not
believe that tea and coffee is harmful if used
in reasonable quantities. It is my opinion that
we have too many extremists and alarmists in
the medical profession and among the laity as
well. -F.H. Barnes.
Critics of tea not sincere
- Tea and coffee are harmless to the vast majority
of healthy people when used in moderation. Most
of the prejudices and fear existing in people’s
minds with reference to tea and coffee have
been created by shrewdly worded advertisements
of fake substitutes. - Charles D. Lockwood
Adaptability Of
Tea
"Nowhere in the English
prodigy of domesticity more notably evidenced
than in the festival of afternoon tea,"
declared George Gissing (1857-1903) in private
papers of Henry Ryecroft. "One of the shining
moments of my day is that when, having returned
a little weary from an afternoon walk. I exchange
boots for slippers, out-of-doors coat for easy
familiar shabby jacket, and in my deep soft
elbowed chair, await the tea tray."
The fascinating story of tea, innovating from
the colourful legend of the tea plant springing
from the eyelids of a slumberous Chinese sage,
to the branded packages that adorn our grocer's
shelves, it has enjoyed a flawless record, to
become the world's most favourite drink.
Originating in the East, tea has come a long
way in conquering the world as the universal
drink. It is taken so much for granted that
its singularity as a natural drink is not generally
recognised. It is one of the most adaptable
commodities in the world with a diversity of
uses, and with a history extending over several
centuries.
Tea as a wholesome drink was launched in China.
It was initially regarded a much priced health
drink, consumed mainly for its medical properties.
Many were the ancient Chinese epigrams fabricated
to project the health giving properties of tea.
"A daily cup of tea or more keeps you out
of the drug store." A statement in an ancient
medical book of the Tang Dynasty says, "Various
medicines are the cure of different diseases,
but tea is the cure of all diseases."
For many decades most tea drinkers in the West
marched to a British tune, although there were
many varieties, each having its own special
taste. Initially it was all green tea, and that
was all they had. A century later the aromatic
flavour of Chinese black tea took the world
by storm, enthusiastically consuming scented
teas. From about the mid 1850's British grown
teas began to conquer the world of tea, and
soon established a monopoly over the tea trade.
They established their own unified standards,
and the only tea that was worth its name was
the healthy, deep amber varieties from Assam
and Ceylon. This opinion is still held by many
die-hards' connoisseurs, although there are
many kinds of tea in China and Ceylon than there
are wines in France.
Very few tea addicts realise that the flavour
of tea changes with seasons, that teas produced
from the same bush could change from day to
day, and that the jat, soil and wind velocities
at different times of the day can impart different
flavours to the leaf. It is only after these
ambient factors are understood, that one begins
to realise the stupidity of adhering to a narrow
view of tea.
The tealeaf itself upholds the characteristics
of the soil on which it is grown. Each harvest
whether plucked from the hilly areas in the
mountainous regions of the Himalayas, or from
the great valleys of Ceylon, whether it be spring,
summer, autumn or winter, each cup has its own
identity.
An unsuspecting tea drinker can be taken on
an imaginary voyage when viewing the display
of the various types of tea on a supermarket
shelf. In most cases' teas are purchased not
so much for the quality of the product, but
for the exotic and elaborate design on the tin.
Tea merchants are well aware of the influence
such complicated pattern has on household blends.
Rhythmical and sometimes, striking names are
used by merchants to market their products.
As a rule, Chinese teas are often named after
flowers, rivers, and mythological heroes. All
these tend to confuse the innocent tea drinker.
To appreciate the vast array of teas available,
a great deal of care and sharpness is required.
There is not only a tea for every taste, but
also for every moment of the day. It takes a
long time to acquire a new taste, and it must
be undertaken gradually. A start could be made
with a standard blend, with food specially chosen
to enhance its character.
In this tangled tea scene, where certain teas
are identified by origins, others by districts
and still others by magical sounding names,
the average tea drinker is hard pressed to make
a choice.
A tea-taster when describing the various types
of tea will be full of fine words. He will employ
a vocabulary as charming as that used by wine
tasters. Thus for a leaf with a fine appearance,
he will call it "true to grade." If
too large for the grade he would describe it
as "bold." The liquor of an immature
tea will be "green" to him. A fully
mature tea will be labelled as "bitter"
or "flat."
What does all this mean to an average tea drinker?
Today, presentation of tea to the general public
is getting more simplified. For the more tender
and affectionate types, who were hooked on to
tea, the tea-masters have taken the degree of
fermentation and the size and form of the leaf
into account in the classification of teas.
The Tea Habit
“Some
curious fanatics in matters of taste, bent on
belittling the findings of extreme civilisation,
maintain that the true and the only wise method
of making tea is to drink it as do the Chinese.
The delightful that injure or weaken their aesthetic
powers on the appreciation of birds’ nest
soup and his fondness for sensual pleasure on
the preparation of rats and puppies in pies,
puts a pinch of tealeaves and swallows it. The
agreeable fanatic admires the simplicity of
the operation, reflects that the Chinaman grows
the tea, prepares it for use, knows every grade
and quality of it and himself drinks it accordingly,
the Chinaman’s way of drinking tea is
the best way."
It was not to be so. As time went by, each country
adopted its own method of brewing tea. A story
is told about Rikyu, the great Japanese tea
master who, when questioned regarding the supposed
secrets of Cha-no-yu, the celebrated tea ceremony
of Japan replied:--
“Well, there is no particular secret in
the ceremony save in making tea agreeable to
the palate, in pilling the charcoal on the brazier
so as to make a good fire, for boiling the water,
in arranging flowers in a natural way, and making
things cool in the summer and warm in the winter.”
The inquirer, disappointed with such an obviously
uninteresting formula exclaimed, “Who
on earth does not know how to do that.”
Rikyu, undisturbed by his reaction replied,
“Well if you know it, do it.”
The great tea culture still practised the world
over, has evolved slowly over the centuries,
and tea drinking has become an integral part
of life and refinement of many societies. One
of the greatest traditions of Western cultures
has been the exploration, exploitation and occasionally
appropriation of foreign cultures.
Tea is certainly the most accommodating substance.
More tea is consumed world wide than any other
beverage, except perhaps water. It stretches
from China to England, from India to America,
from Japan to Morocco, and it is acquiring more
followers each day. It is estimated that over
half a billion cups of tea are drunk daily on
this planet. Tea has never posed a threat to
a way of life, and what is most important is
that it had, in no way, been synonymous with
standardisation.
Unlike other beverages, tea offers all opportunities
for the free expression of individual tastes.
Many cultures are thus discovered along the
route that leads from a steaming bowl of cha
with Yak butter, to a tall glass of iced tea
with a slice of lemon.
Tea originated in China in the year 2737 BC,
and for the next three thousand years it stayed
entirely a Chinese affair. In “The Chinese
Art of Tea,” John Blofeld noted that every
layer of Chinese society played a part in its
history.
To the Chinese, offering a bowl of tea was a
sign of welcome, and by 500 BC, tea had procured
its true assertion in society as a mark of friendship
and hospitality, and it continues to be so even
today.
It was much later that tea acquired a place
in medical history, and soon became an object
of adoration and flourishing trade. Chinese
tea found converts across its boarders, and
the Imperial Government profited by taxing the
tea trade. Many were there to sing its praises
and compose poems in recognition of its healing
powers. It was going to be the beverage of refined
souls, glorified by poets and systematised by
tea masters. Divine approval tea obtained during
this period, called for more sophisticated forms
and techniques in the preparation of the brew.
Metallic utensils gave way to well-designed
teapots and to bowels engraved in gold and silver.
From about the tenth century, the art of tea
drinking had reached its zenith, and tea contests
became a fashionable pastime. Very strict rules
were laid down for the preparation of tea for
the Royalty, but Emperor Hui Tsun (1100-1126)
had his own way. The tealeaves had to be picked
by young virgins wearing gloves and using gold
scissors. They were permitted to cut only the
bud and the youngest leaf, which was left on
a golden platter to dry before being poured
directly into the Emperor’s bowl.
Not all Chinese could aspire to such degree
of purity. Only the rich could afford this form
of ritual. They gathered in teahouses known
for their extravagance, their friendliness and
their magnificent decorations. For the less
fortunate, there were always the street hawkers
who provided them with a cheaper drink. There
were also the working-class teahouses that provided,
in addition to tea, cheap musical entertainment.
What amidst so many ways of drinking tea is
the right way? Strong brew or weak, milk or
no milk, sugar, loose tea or tea bags, hot or
iced, leaf or mint, or even butter flavoured.
Since so many different people are indoctrinated
that their way is the right way, there can only
be one answer to the question.
The right way to drink tea is the way you like
it best. To this must however be added an important
conditional stipulation. Whatever way you take
your tea, the leaves should have been given
the chance of bringing out its full character
and flavour.
At this point, we leave the realm of preference
and enter the world of fact, because, tea’s
full properties and flavours will not be released
unless the dry leaves have been exposed for
a sufficient length of time, to the action of
fresh water as near the boil as possible.
Instructions to wash the pot, and to take the
teapot to the kettle are not just old wives’
nonsense, but they do help to obtain the best
from the tea. As for the length of time needed
for the full infusion of the leaves, about five
minutes would suffice, but in no case should
it be less than three minutes.
The Book of tea by Kakuzo Okakura has clearly
identified three styles of tea preparation in
ancient China. There was “cake tea”
that was boiled, “powered tea” that
was whipped, and “leaf tea” that
was steeped. It was steeped tea that the outside
world took as their model, whilst all other
methods had given way to philosophical and political
upheavals and remained unknown in the West.
“There is greatness in the smallest incidents
of life.” So said Lu Yu, the oldest interpreter
of tea about the proper use of tea. In the ten
thousand objects which heaven nourishes, there
is supreme perfection. It is only for ease and
comfort that human beings work at things. Thus
with tea, there are nine ways by which man must
tax himself when he has to do with tea.
He must manufacture it,
He must develop a sense of selectivity and discrimination
about it,
He must provide the proper implements,
He must prepare the right kind of fire,
He must select suitable water,
He must roast the tea to a turn,
He must grind it well,
He must brew it to its utmost perfection,
He must finally drink it.
The manner in which tea is drunk in the West
has not been universally adopted. It is those
countries that have no traditional tea habit
that offers the greatest provocation to the
hardened tea drinker. Yet, the way in which
tea is commonly made in Britain is not, or not
necessarily the correct way. In China and Japan,
the original homes of tea drinking, it was brewed
and consumed without the addition of milk or
sugar.
Tea making and drinking in Japan is elaborately
formalised in the famous tea ceremony in which
green frothy tea is consumed in a ceremonial
fashion attended by appreciative sucking noises
and much bowing. The habit of adding milk to
tea in general terms is the preserve of countries
of the British Commonwealth. Many others such
as Russia and the United States often drink
their tea without milk, but they prefer a slice
of lemon, and sugar to taste. In North Africa,
tea is kept boiling for fifteen minutes before
being heavily sugared and slopped back and forth
between the tea pot and a large glass to make
it frothy. In Tibet, green tea is boiled for
several hours and then has salt and rancid butter
added before being served in wooden bowls.
It is strange that although tea is made from
the popular Camellias, each nation has different
ideas about making tea. The reputed food of
tealeaves on bread and butter had long been
in existence. In Thailand, they chew miang with
salt and other condiments. In Burma, tealeaves
were pickled with oil and garlic with dry fish
to taste. Newly married couples shared the same
cup of tealeaves steeped in oil to ensure happiness
till deaths do them part. In Kashmir, they drink
tea boiled in red potash aniseed and salt. The
Arabs like it sweet with mint leaves added for
flavouring. Koreans are known to suck raw eggs
between sips of tea.
The different methods of tea drinking are without
number, but they are all united in their common
regard for Camellia sinensis but divided by
the methods in which they prepare their brew.
When the tea drinking habit was first introduced
to the western world, it underwent violent changes
in their social behaviour. Tea, coffee and sister
beverages can hold their own today because of
the immense service it has bequeathed to modern
society. If one were to trace back the life
styles of the Western nations in the bracing
cold before the introduction of tea as a soothing
drink, without a doubt they would have gone
to any length to avoid drinking plain water.
The monks of Abingdon were entitled to three
gallons of beer. It is also reported that in
1346, the English army engaged in the routine
task of devastating France, cast aside the campaign
and returned home after four days without wine
or beer.
The Story of Tea
The story of tea is an
absorbing subject, but obscured by the mists
of great age and tangled with myth and legend.
According to ancient Chinese tradition, tea
has a place within a complex, but fashionable
version of the creation.
When Heaven and Earth were split to pieces,
giving birth to the world, the universe was
ruled by twelve brilliant Emperors of heaven
who each ruled for 18,000 years. They were followed
by eleven Emperors of Earth who were also in
power for 18,000 years each. They were succeeded
by nine Emperors of mankind, who reigned for
45,000 years and finally this period of rule
was completed with the three sovereigns living
in Hunan, south of the yellow river. They invented
all the arts crafts that they presented to men.
Shen Nung, considered the divine creator was
the first to till the earth and so gave the
gift of tea to man. He wrote the first classic
on tea. According to him, “Tea grew in
winter in the valleys by the streams on the
hills of Chow, and does not perish in severe
winter. It is gathered on the third day of the
third month and then dried. It quenches thirst.
It lessens the desire for sleep. It gladdens
and cheers the heart.”
Tea, unlike most other beverages, was from its
earliest appearance endowed with the aura of
the Gods, and acclaimed having a combination
of medicine and elixir of life.
Many are the legendary stories related concerning
the origin of tea, but the central theme of
all these stories is philosophy, religion, and
literature. Tea was meant to become a spiritual
criterion of a way of life. The Buddhists of
the day named tea “froth of the liquid
Jade,” a much needed ingredient of the
magic potion of eternal life.
Adventurers and priests searched for this fable
drink on expeditions to the unexplored world.
Strange stories have emerge, and one such tale
is regarding a cult who trained monkeys to gather
wild tea leaves from luxuriant plants growing
among high dangerous rocks.
Another very interesting Chinese creation, which
embodies the importance of legendary beliefs
in oriental philosophy relating to spirit and
matter follows. The story is told that at the
beginning of Eternity, Soul and Substance had
a fight unto death. Finally the son of heaven,
the “Yellow Emperor” prevailed over
the demon of earth and night. In this cosmic
anguish, the dying demon struck the blue jade
roof of heaven with his mighty head, and sent
the world into a spin. Planets and stars faltered
in their orbits.
From the bowels of the earth, there rose the
Goddess Nu Wa, who through the powers of the
coiled green dragon eased the troubled planets
with its aura of serene potency. Dressed in
fiery robes, she created the rainbow, and used
it to rebuild the damaged sky. The sad story
is that in the process of reconstruction, she
overlooked to repair two tiny cracks. So began
the drama of love, two spirits careening through
time and space, never resting until by their
union they complete the universe. The key notion
in this philosophy is reflected in the modern
day architecture of the tearoom, where the frailty
of the structure is a matter of spiritual emphasis,
and where symmetry is avoided.
It took a long time for fiction to be expressed
as a statement of fact. Written records soon
began to replace old oral traditions, and tea
entered a new phase. The interpretation of folklore
to fact was not always easy, and there were
many problems tea historians had to confront.
They were unable to trace Chinese written references
to tea, as the Chinese language is composed
of ideograms and symbols, rather than words,
as we know then in modern times. The term Ch’a
did not come into common use until about the
seventh century AD, The earlier symbol for tea
was t’u, but it went on to symbolise other
plants as well. These factors made it difficult
for the interpreters to determine which plant
was refereed to.
Chinese history is based on dynasties or periods
of administration that flowered and faded, and
as each set took control, they set about changing
or destroying the history of the previous regime.
Each ruling Emperor would employ every technique
at hand to impress upon the people that his
form of rule is the best. If an Emperor felt
that it is in his interest to say that he discovered
tea, he would order his scribes to change all
history books. This form of ridicule would undoubtedly
strengthen his rule, but create endless problems
for the twentieth century scholars.
It has taken a few centuries for the truth to
emerge, regarding the origin of tea, to separate
myth from reality. Teacher of ancient Chinese
history would have had to venture across the
hazy, transient boundary between fable and fact.
After centuries of research the truth has at
last been established.
Long before the political boundaries were drawn,
this was a vast area. It has now been established
that the aboriginal tribesmen living in the
hills south-west of the Chinese border, in the
area now referred to as South-east Asia, had
made a drink by boiling the green leaves of
wild tea trees in ancient kettles over crude
smoky camp-fires. The mission has now ended,
and this is proved to be the starting point
from which the Chinese had learnt the use of
tea.
The Erh Ya is an ancient dictionary, attributed
to the Duke of Chou in the eighteen century
BC. When it was commented upon in 350 AD, the
definition of tea was added to it. It was referred
to as “a beverage made from the leaves
by boiling.” This drink was regarded as
a medicinal decoction taken to cure a variety
of digestive and nervous disorders. Its healing
qualities were so respected, that it was often
applied as an external past to cure rheumatic
pains.
Most historians now agree upon 350 AD as the
earliest credible record of tea cultivation.
Many more references to tea followed thereafter,
and its form of end use kept changing all the
time. The customarily method of preparation
adopted in China was to form the tea leaves
into cakes, have them roasted until reddish
in colour, pound them into a powder, and treat
it to boiling water when required. Very often,
onions, ginger and orange were added to taste.
Wild tealeaves first took the form of food,
long before it was cultivated for use as a beverage.
Northern Siam, now referred to as Thailand,
were known to have steamed tea leaves, fashioned
them into balls, and eaten with salt, garlic,
pig fat, and dried fish. This seems very similar
to the practice adopted by African tribesmen
who used coffee in a similar manner, as an energiser
for strength. Koreans sucked raw eggs from the
shell in between sips of tea. In Kashmir, tea
was served with red potash, anise seeds and
salt.
The Burmese went further to turn the tea leaves
into a delicious pickled tea salad. It was a
long drawn process. Boiled and manipulated jungle
tea leaves were stored in hollow bamboo and
buried for months. These were dug up, and served
as a delicacy at special functions. The Tibetans
had their own way of preparing breakfast tea.
It was an involved process. This tasty meal
was a combination of barley meal, salt and goat’s
milk butter, and agitated to the consistency
of chocolate.
The utilisation of tea was many. It had been
a food, medicine, beverage, and part of a religious
ritual. It must not be forgotten that from its
very inception, tea had been used as money.
It is reported that Chine adopted a system of
banking based on tea long before West was civilised.
Paper or coined money found little use to the
tribes of the interior, farmers and herdsmen.
They prized crude compressed brick tea, made
by primitive ox-presses. They made use of this
to consume and trade. Minted money often decreased
in value the further it travelled, but brick
tea enjoyed the virtue of gaining in value as
distances increased from the garden of their
origin.
Chinese Tea Acquires
Refinement
How to obtain
the best in tea
The following is a citation
from a lecture delivered to the students of
the London Hospital by Sir Andrew Clark, which
appeared in the Paris edition of the New York
Herald of April 1892.
“Let him” he said, “have plenty
of good feeding, and at the close of his meal,
let him sip a cut of milk and water, or a cup
of tea. And here I must pause to speak to you
about tea. Tea is a blessed beverage. I do not
know what I should do without it. But there
is tea and tea, but one of the teas I have in
mind is the representation of all that is physiologically
wicked. I go about town a good deal, holding
consultations here and there, and about five
O’ clock, when I get into a place, the
lady of the house will say to me “Sir
Andrew, you look so tired. Do let me give you
a cup of tea.” I say, “Thank you
very much.” But the tea had stood for
half an hour, and she remarks, “I know
you do not like it strong, Sir Andrew, and then
she puts about tablespoon of tea into a cup
and fills it up with water. Now I call it positive
cruelty to give tea like that to anybody, and
I hope you gentlemen will always set your faces
against such a beverage.”
Throughout the ages considerable attention has
been paid to the aspect of brewing tea, and
in their search for the correct conformity,
one has to necessarily take into account the
local cultures and the background of the consuming
public in that particular environment. A specific
form of brewing tea in China, England or America
as worked out by the connoisseurs and experts
cannot be adopted in other parts of the world.
Good tea they say is a bargain, but to what
extent is our experience of tea limited by the
way we brew it, or by the lack of choices. The
most widely used is not necessarily the best.
Lu Tung, a Chinese poet of the 8th century wrote
these words about tea.
“The first cup moistens my lips and throat,
the second cup breaks my loneliness, third cup
searches my barren entrails but to find therein
some five thousand volumes of odd ideographs.
The fourth cup raises a slight perspiration,
all the wrongs of life pass through my pores.
At the fifth cup I am purified, the sixth calls
me up to the realm of immortals…let me
ride on this sweet breeze and waft away thither.”
Today, most packers offer blends, and this in
no way is an indication of the unique quality
in the tea. It is determined by the emergency
of mass production and mass marketing.
A shopper may be told that his extraordinary
blend contains specially manufactured pekoes
and orange pekoes for the tea drinking pleasure
of his clients. It may sound good, but at the
same time it is senseless and misleading. Pekoes
and orange pekoes only mean the size or the
cut of the leaf. It does not in any way describe
its origin nor the degree of fermentation it
has undergone during the process of manufacture,
which ultimately determine quality levels. Marketing
tea in this fashion is like marketing cheese
as sliced, or unsliced without any reference
to whether they are cheddars, or bries, sharps,
or milds, domestic or imports.
This beverage is such that tea will yield up
its wonderful qualities if treated with only
a little of care. Buy the best, as it will cost
you only a few cents a cup. We have seen the
growth and changes that have taken place in
the tea-drinking world, from the original Chinese
ways to modern forms of serving tea in the commercial
centres in the world.
It is difficult at this stage to determine what
constitute the goodness in tea, but the average
tea drinker has it for its delicate aroma and
flavour, and to him, the stimulating and comforting
qualities is secondary factors.
On the other side of the scale we have the black
blocks of Australia, considered heavy tea drinkers,
who care little for the finer qualities of tea.
They have it thick and course, and it can supplement
a meal, whilst those in other countries have
it light and only become little more than a
thirst quencher.
The essential ingredient required to obtain
a pleasing cup of tea is your favourite bland
of tea. Long exposures to the air can make it
stale. Being a hygroscopic substance, tea can
be easily contaminated. It should be stored
away in an airtight tea caddy or tin. It should
be kept in a cool dry place out of direct light.
Water used for brewing tea must be freshly boiled.
This may be outside the scope of the average
tea drinker, but the tea supplier to that region
should take care of this aspect by providing
the correct blend. The general conception however
is that alkaline water produces dull liquors.
Tea infuses more readily in soft water than
in hard water. The tea tasters will look after
this aspect of the problem.
Over-boiled water makes flat teas, and does
not give the vital taste associated with a good
cup of tea. Water that is just brought to the
boil should be used for brewing tea. A good
brew is obtained by allowing an applicable amount
of boiling water to drain the best of the constituents
from a specific amount of dry leaf, and infused
for a precise amount of time. A tea that is
correctly brewed will have flavour, body, stimulation,
pungency and colour in well-balanced proportions.
Intensive research has been conducted to ascertain
the correct length of time the tea should be
allowed to brew to draw in the best from the
leaves. In the case of fermented teas, five-minute
infusion is considered the best. Some controversy
persists concerning the infusion time for a
perfect cup of tea from a chemical standpoint,
and a consumer's judgement. For a brew of plain
tea, where no cream or milk is added, a brewing
time of three to four minutes is recommended.
If the intention is to add cream or milk, then
an extended brewing time is advocated, from
five to six minutes.
The colour, pungency and body of fermented teas
are derived from the water-soluble tannins,
and tannin oxidation products in the dry leaf.
Colour is an optical sensation. Astringency
is more a palpable than a taste perception.
Body or fullness is felt in the mouth, a perfect
cup of tea will have all these ingredients in
their correct proportion.
Quality of tea is maximised by the clever handling
of the leaf in field and factories of the tea-growing
countries in the world. The flavour of tea is
remarkably refined, but tea is a simple commodity,
the brewing of which is a simple operation.
A good cup of tea could be brewed with the minimum
of care and skill, but never rush into it. Brewing
of tea is part of drinking it, and drinking
it is a part of living. Make the brewing of
tea a ritual. Watch the leaves unfold as the
tea develops colour and puts forth its tempting
fragrance.
Do not restrain yourself to buying the cheapest
tea. It pays to buy the best that suits you,
and use one teaspoon of tea bag for each 5,1/2
ounce cup. The brew should be a delightful composition
of flavour, body, colour, stimulation and pungency.
The teapot that is used should be most applicable
to the task, and should be treated with utmost
respect. The inside of the pot should never
be scrubbed, but only rinsed with running water.
The deposits of tannin that coats the sides
of the pot should be retained, as it will enhance
the flavour of the tea in the pot.
A pot used for brewing smoky teas such as Oolongs
should not be used for other purposes. A seasoned
tea drinker will have different pots to brew
unlike types of tea. The average tea drinker
should have a separate pot to brew mild teas,
another for strong teas, and perhaps an additional
one for flavoured teas.
Teapots made of terracotta or cast iron is best
suited for brewing strong teas that are rich
in tannin, such as Ceylon and Assam’s.
Porcelain or enamel cast iron is recommended
for green and semi-fermented teas. Light liquoring
black teas such as Darjeeling too should brew
well in these pots.
It must be remembered that tea is flavoured
water, and therefore the quality of the water
plays an important part in the final reckoning.
The Japanese mastered the art of selecting the
ideal type of water, and they have made this
tea drinking ceremony into a fine art. It is
said that the Queen of England carries her quota
of spring water with her wherever she goes,
to ensure that she has a favourite cup of tea.
Secure the best source of water that is pure,
fresh, odourless and free of calcium.
Bring freshly drawn water to a bubbling boil,
and pour it when it reaches the stage of bubbling
intensely. Water that is under boiled over boiled
or kept in a container will only give you stale
and flat tea. They lack liveliness and will
default in its ability to agitate the leaves
for a proper infusion.
Pre-heat your teapot. The teapot should maintain
the high temperature when boiling water is poured.
A cold teapot will reduce the temperature, and
will result in the preparation of less lively
teas.
Keep the temperatures constant by taking the
pot to the kettle. Brew the tea for three to
six minutes depending on the kind of tea used.
Flaky leaf will brew faster than well-twisted
leaf. Adjusting the brewing time within the
given guidelines will ensure that the brewing
process will suit the type of leaf and personal
taste. Tea should not be at any stage stewed,
as the brew will become too heavy and bitter.
It will kill the flavour and the aroma of the
tea.
Keep the brewing tea hot while infusion is taking
place. A tea cozy could be used for this purpose.
Separate the infused leaf from the liquor, stir
well and serve. Nothing is gained if kept for
long, except bitterness. If tea bags are used,
just lift it from the pot. If you want more
tea, brew more tea, but make it a point to use
fresh leaf or a new tea bag. Avoid using fresh
water on spent leaf, it will only give a little
colour and a little bitterness.
In the country of origin, tea was always taken
straight without the addition of any flavours.
On its long journey to the West, it had acquired
many refinements, and the gentle art of savouring
the tea has been laid open to revolutionary
changes. Today, this formidable subject revolves
round milk, sugar and lemon. This to a connoisseur
may sound junk, but this hard line has to be
softened to satisfy all tastes.
Thick liquoring black teas from Ceylon and Assam
will tolerate milk. As the British have laid
down, serving of tea at morning breakfast should
be a full bodied variety, where milk can help
in the digestive process. For other light liquoring
varieties such as Darjeeling, greens and semi
fermented types, milk is totally unacceptable.
The true critic will discourage the use of lemon
at all times, as it can totally change the taste
and colour of the tea. A slice of lemon however
could be introduced to certain varieties of
delicate, light liquoring aromatic teas, such
as those from Nuwara Eliya.
Sugar to some tea drinkers is necessary, and
it can be added to average quality black tea.
The use of these additives will continue to
confront constant rivals, some tea addicts have
gone to the extent of proclaiming that those
of who are desirous of enjoying a sweet drink
should have sugar dissolved in hot water. But
tea after all is a beverage, and the best way
to have it is to have it your way.
In general, tea could be classified under three
categories. Fermented black-tea, Unfermented
Green tea, and semi-fermented tea. Although
these differences remain, the tea plant is the
same in all the countries. These variances however
are due to the different methods of manufacture,
local climate, soil, and cultivation methods.
There are hundreds of different marks with each
country, while the number of possible blends
available would be unlimited.
The fully fermented black tea varieties are
mostly manufactured in India Ceylon and Java.
They are plucked the year round, and the best
quality sorts are obtained from Ceylon during
February, March and April, and again during
August and September. South India produces the
best teas during December and January, and the
second flush harvested during June and July
and the autumn teas that flushes from September
onwards in North India are of vintage quality.
North and South China produce their best black
teas with the commencement of the first picking
from April to October, but their most popular
greens are obtained during June and July. Japan
enjoys their season from May to October. Although
many crops are harvested during this period,
first and the second farmed during May and June
has claimed world recognition. In Formosa, quality
follows the seasons, starting with spring, and
then followed by summer autumn and winter, but
the teas manufactured in the months of June
and July is the best.
Long before marketing of tea got sophisticated,
the average consumer had to depend on the grocer
to supply him with his requirements of black
or green tea. The dealer nor the consumer at
that stage realised that there were vast variances
between the various teas of the same category.
It is estimated that among the Chinese blacks,
there are more than 500 varieties of grades,
and among the greens, 200. Ceylon and India
between them can easily measure up to a further
2000. In addition 300 could be added for Japan
Java and other small producers.
There are more than 3000 straight teas that
can be blended in an enormous combination of
blends. In this vast entanglement of different
blends, there is a tea to suit the requirements
of each consumer.
Try out the various descriptions and pick out
the one you fancy most, and ensure that you
“drink the best.” Never compromise
quality at any stage. More than 200 cups of
tea could be made from a pound of tea, and even
at today’s apparently high prices, the
cost per cup would be negligible
The British Acquired
Their Own Way
“For an Englishman
to be cheerful, he must have his tea, good tea
at that, whenever he wants it, at the railway
station, on the trains, in the office, and the
tea trolley must roll out all the time for him
at home.”
The advancement of civilisation in the Western
world could be linked with the introduction
of tea and coffee. With it the entire life style
of the average consumer in Britain changed.
He starts the day with the early morning cup
of tea. He follows this pattern of consumption
with several more cups at breakfast time. They
became famous for taking regular tea breaks,
and they continue with this habit into the better
part of the morning. There were still others
who went further to washing down their lunch
with a large cup of tea, but their drink of
tea in the afternoon was universally accepted.
Some complete their dinner with a cup of tea,
but most of them take further doses before retiring
for the night.
“It is not too fanciful,” so says
P. J. Banyard in his book The Tea Trade “to
connect the introduction of tea and coffee to
the West with the advance of Western civilisation
and technical accomplishment. Certainly the
rising consumption of tea in Britain runs parallel
with rising achievement as a society. The truth
is the average human being needs a liquid intake
of less than a gallon a day but can manage a
great deal more. When this intake was supplied
by intoxicants of varying strengths, the general
efficiency must have been impaired. It is now
difficult for most of us to imagine a world
in which the only alternate to water was milk
or alcohol. It now gives an indication of the
changes brought about by the introduction of
tea and coffee.”
Tea is more than simple refreshment. It has
got itself so dug into the social lives of the
British, that it has given its name to a meal.
The period between dinner and supper became
longer and longer, during the eighteen-century,
with the result, the pangs of hunger became
unbearable.
When tea was first introduced to England from
China, it would certainly have been in the Chinese
manner that tea would have been prepared and
drunk. It did not however take much time before
the Englishman adopted their own way of brewing
tea in harmony with their own habits and temperaments.
The spectacular rise of tea consumption in England
was linked to the success of the coffee houses,
the first of which was opened in London in 1652.
Within fifty years, London alone could boast
of over five hundred coffee houses, and they
became the foremost social centres of British
life.
Apparently it was here that the European version
of “tipping” originated. Customers
could toss a coin into a box marked T. I. P.
(To Insure Promptness)
The first of its kind to specialise in tea was
“Tom’s Coffee House,” that
was started in 1706 by Thomas Twining, now a
household word in the world of tea. During the
last quarter of the eighteen- century, tea consumption
doubled in England, after the tea drinking habit
had filtered down from the aristocracy to the
middle and the lower classes.
The British, like all others, had to evolve
their own style of drinking tea. Catherine the
Portuguese Queen of Charles 11 was the first
to accept this challenge. She introduced tea
drinking to the English Court after her marriage
in 1662. She added a sparkling display and a
social distinction to the art of tea making,
which was missing at the coffee houses.
An array of tea making utensils was introduced
to make the tea drinking ceremony look more
glamorous, with teapots made of costly Chinese.
The English custom was to half fill the teapot
containing the required quantity of leaf with
boiling water and left to infuse. Teapot was
filled with more boiling water once the liquid
in the pot was exhausted.
The magical formula, a teaspoon per person and
one for the pot are followed even today by the
folks who still prefers the ritualistic form
of brewing tea. Milk or cream is often added
to the beverage in the cup. It is customary
to serve a jug of hot water. This makes the
tea go much further. In this manner, they have
made tea a very cheap drink.
With the people of high social standing, the
standard rule is for the early-morning cup of
tea to be brought to the bedside. It is regarded
the awakener and the stimulator, and it is recognised
and catered to by the hotels. Tea is a washer
down of substantial meals, as well as an appetiser,
a digester and a sundowner.
They introduced the terms such as “Tea
“Tea Time," and “High Tea”
which are a way of life even today. The terms
may sound similar to the unsuspecting, but the
British ensured that a distinct difference prevailed
among the three terms, and defined accordingly.
The general term “Tea” meant any
occasion when tea was served. “Tea Time”
was meant to denote a particular time when tea
is served, usually accompanied by light refreshments.
At a “High Tea” a meal was always
served with meats and other relishes.
The world is indebted to Anne, spouse of the
Seventh Duke of Bedford (1778 to 1861) for having
introduced the concept of an “Afternoon
Tea." It was the eating habits prevalent
during that time, where no meals were taken
between lunch and dinner eaten at three or four
o’clock in the afternoon that prompted
the ladies to establish an afternoon meal.
However as the evening meal was delayed, the
pangs of hunger became unbearable for some.
It was for this reason that incited Lawrence
Durrell to remark, “when silences begin
to fall, broken only by the rumblings of a lady’s
entrails, it is the beginning of the end.”
To starve off such a dreadful situation the
Duchess decided to strike a new line by introducing
the afternoon tea, where light refreshments
were served.
Tea has played many a part in Britain’s
long history, and when the temperance movement
started in England in the early 1830’s,
the reformers found that they could promote
the consumption of tea in the hope of subduing
alcoholic beverages in the country. They succeeded
in their attempts to wean people away from alcohol.
“Tea Meetings” became so popular
that the wealthy, the beauty, and the intelligent,
were always present at these gatherings.
The eminent position offered to this beverage
by society at large, brought about a cultural
revolution in Britain. There was an emotional
upheaval that made the artisans of the day fly
into passion. Its influence spread far and wide.
Furniture makers looked to new designs, artisans,
with proven artistic talents were called upon
to produce silver, porcelain or earthenware
tea pots, and China tea cups and saucers of
great beauty. It was round these “Tea
Tables” that the social life of these
pioneers centred.
It was to the earthenware industry that tea
gave its greatest incentive for further expansion.
It was fashionable in China to make tea in unglazed
stoneware, and this was soon picked up in Europe.
Production of ceramics had already got under
way in Holland, but this was not suitable for
making teapots. By the end of the seventeenth
century, England was very much into it and the
headquarters for this new industry was established
in Staffordshire.
The novel idea of adding milk to tea would have
originated in England, and remained the preserve
of countries of the British Commonwealth. As
there is nothing in Chinese or Japanese practice
to suggest it. This takes us back to Thomas
Garway’s famous broadsheet published in
London in 1660, where he describes the fifteen
practical virtues of tea.
These were all medicinal, but one virtue that
received a special mention was “it being
prepared and drunk with milk and water, strengthens
the inward parts and prevents consumption and
powerfully assuaged the pains of the bowels,
or griping of the guts and looseness."
His reference to tea, in this instance, is undoubtedly
for special medical purposes and not for general
use. It becomes clear that when the Chinese
and the Japanese were enjoying tea as a drink,
the English thought of it largely as a medicine.
The strength of the brew is sometimes given
as the reason for the use of milk; and into
this category could be included the full-bodied
Ceylon and Indian teas. This explanation again
does not seen reasonable as this habit of the
use of milk had been established in England
at least a hundred years before Indian or Ceylon
teas ever penetrated the British market.
Although the habit of serving tea with milk
is fairly universal within the Commonwealth,
there are still slight variations in some countries,
to the British way of brewing tea. In South
Africa, milk is added to a brew that is considerably
weaker to what is normally drunk in England.
In the United States the users of milk are very
much in a minority, as they are on the Continent.
The Middle East countries consume large quantities
of tea but milk is hardly added. China and Japan
have never departed from taking their home-grown
tea neat.
“Saucering” tea and then drinking
from the saucer had been a common practice in
Britain. As tea-drinking habit developed further,
they introduced more and more refinement to
the art of tea drinking, and elevated it to
a level unmatched earlier.
The next controversy arises from the milk-in-first-
and the milk-in-last drinkers of tea. This again
could be regarded as a matter of personal preference,
but those who take the milk last in this instance,
should be given the last word. They only can
tell how much milk needs to be added after having
poured out the tea and seen in the cup.
Addition of sugar again is a follow up of the
original method of drinking tea in China and
Japan. To ascertain the exact date when this
habit was introduced to England is difficult
to ascertain, but by the middle of the 18th
century, tea with cream or milk and with sugar
to taste, had become England’s accepted
custom, whether in the Royal Palace in Windsor
or in the humblest cottage in the country. With
the fast spreading of this custom, the sugar
bowl and the cream ewer came to be included
as standard equipment in the tea sets manufactured
in all the porcelain factories in Britain.
The use of sugar has caused sharp diversions
among tea drinkers. The decision to exclude
sugar in the tea by some, could be traced back
to the days of rationing, when they were forced
to deny themselves of sugar in the tea, so as
to make the family ration suffice for puddings
and jams. This category of people no doubt,
reaped their reward in acquiring a real preference
for unsweetened tea.
The use of tea bags is on a steady rise in Britain
now, but there is still a segment of the consuming
public that are still capable of making a delicious
and a satisfying cup of tea, The most noticeable
difference between American and British attitude
towards tea is the place reserved for it in
public life. In London there are hundreds of
popular tearooms run by popular brand holders.
In the summer, tea is generally enjoyed in the
open, and tea gardens are operated in all public
parks of London.
The addiction of the British to tea is best
explained in one of the recollections of Cecil
Roth.
“I was recently the guest of Baron Alfred
de Rothschild in his Seamore Place palace. Early
in the morning, a liveried servant entered my
room pushing a huge table on wheels. He asked,
“would you like tea or peach sir?”
I chose tea. This immediately provoked another
question. “China, India or Ceylon sir.”
When I asked for Indian tea, he enquired, “With
lemon, cream or milk sir? I opted for milk,
but he wanted to know which breed of cow I preferred.
“Jersey, Hereford, or Sorthorn sir?”
Never have I drunk such a good cup of tea
The entire scenario has changed today. Doubts
now exist as to whether the British, who had
transformed the art of tea drinking to a proficiency
of the highest order, and converted it to a
ceremony, will give up their favourite cup of
hot tea. There is sufficient proof to indicate
that soft drinks are taking over from more traditional
beverages as the average consumer is getting
concerned with health. In addition, in this
world of restless competition they are also
looking for convenience, with the result old
customs are fast dying out. Habits may change,
but the consumption of tea in whatever form
it is taken will remain the bedrock of the beverage
market in England.
Tea In the Middle
East
Prior to the sixteenth
century, it must have been with the coming of
caravans, that Chinese tea started to penetrate
the western world in very small quantities.
Afghanistan, the focus of the silk route, had
it first, and they made it their national drink.
The Afghan merchants, pilgrims, camel-drivers
and caravan travellers enjoyed this new beverage
in open tents, seated cross-legged as they savoured
it. They drank green tea as a thirst quencher,
and black tea as a stimulant. They added large
quantities of refined sugar to sweeten the tea.
It must have been the “camel trains”
that ultimately brought tea to the Mediterranean
shores, reaching the Ottoman Empire and Egypt
several centuries before it reached the Western
World. Tea was very much appreciated in Turkey,
and it was customary for every household to
have a pot of tea on the boil. Serving of tea
was a kind disposition expressed by the host
to accommodate a foreigner in the house. It
requires the host to continually refill a guest’s
glass until he places the teaspoon across the
glass. These traditions are still carried out
in Turkey and Iran.
Egypt is one of the largest consumers of tea
in the world, and definitely the largest in
Africa. Tea had been the choice of the Royalty,
and records of its use date back to the fifteenth
century. In September 1942, Rommel purchased
the support of the Sheikhs by offering them
ten thousand Italian Lire and six pounds of
tea in the middle of the Libyan Desert. So important
had tea been to the Egyptians.
In the more posh teahouses in the city, customers
are usually served with a glass of unsugared
“chai” on a small tray, accompanied
by a glass of cold water, a small glass of sugar,
a spoon, and on rare occasions, the third glass
containing mint leaves. Like in all other Middle
East countries, Tea is served to all visitors,
and it is consumed seated on mats placed on
the ground.
Green tea is generally consumed in Morocco and
Afghanistan, and in the case of the former,
it has become a part of their traditional mint
tea. It is however a recent tradition. Green
tea is served in brightly coloured small glasses.
Serving of tea is a man’s job, and is
generally performed by the head of the family,
to signify that he is the head, father and host.
Mint tea on the other hand is served at all
hours of the day accompanied by sweets. It eases
digestion, and their popular dictum is that
tea should be bitter as death, sweet as life
and as mellow as love.
It’s Introduction
to the West
Tea was first introduced
into Europe through Holland around 1640. It
for long was considered a medicinal plant mostly
used by women who could purchase them from the
herbalist shops, forerunners to pharmacies of
today. During the initial stages, it was only
the aristocracy that could afford to purchase
it. The price of tea during the mid 1660’s
was reckoned at around 80 to 100 Dollars per
pound, and remained a luxury that only the rich
could indulge in.
Exotic teas with strange names were exported
from China to Europe and America during the
17th and 18th century, but most of them have
sadly disappeared. There was “Young Hyson,"
Bing, Caper, and Twankay (after which Gilbert
and Sullivan’s widow Twankey was named).
No tea however was stranger than that reserved
for the Emperor and his Court. These came from
the wild tea bushes in Yunnan province in China.
These tea trees grew to such height that it
was impossible for the tips to be plucked except
by specially trained monkeys. About 200 pounds
of “Imperial Monkey Picked Tea”
were produced each season.
As imports increased, the price of tea naturally
dropped, and more and more people came to relish
this wonder beverage from the East. By the mid
eighteen-century the Germans had replaced their
morning bowl of soup with tea. The aristocracy
had their own tearooms in their houses to entertain
their friends, while the lower class citizens
formed “tea clubs."
Once the tea drinking habit got well entrenched
in the lives of the German people, there was
an inclination for the more invigorating sorts
to emulate the Chinese, and they transformed
the art of tea drinking into a ceremony, where
the guests gathered in the afternoon to partake
in the ritual. They even made out in passionate
terms the various stages in the preparation
of tea.
By chance, tea had been quick to gather fallacious
assumptions in its preparation, unlike in the
case of coffee and cocoa that was in vogue before
tea. To stir tea in a pot is to stir disagreement.
Froth on the surface of the liquid would mean
the promise of a love letter. If you put in
the milk before the sugar, you risk losing your
sweetheart. If a girl permits a man to pour
out a second cup of tea for her, she will succumb
to his designs. A floating tealeaf gives advance
notice of visit of a stranger.
Tea drinking soon became a social event, where
poets, artists, writers and diplomats gathered
to discuss the events of the day, and the more
sensitive younger generation was fast giving
up their coffee in preference to tea.
Sugar was used as the standard form of sweetening
but milk took a long time to make its appearance.
Tea was never drunk out of the cup but out of
the saucer, and as an expression of gratitude,
the guests made audible sipping and sniffing
sounds while drinking the tea. Cakes were served
during the tea ceremony and the conversation
generally centred round tea. Twenty to thirty
cups of tea are consumed in this manner, after
which brandy with raisins was served, and with
it came the piper for both men and women.
Frequent tea parties left many a home ruined.
Women neglected their housework. Spouses, returning
after a hard day work, finding the wife missing
from home, started to patronise the taverns.
Tea came under heavy attack during this period.
As in most other countries, tea found a niche
market in France purely for its medicinal properties.
As early as 1692, tea and tobacco were both
used as stimulants, with a sprinkling of brandy
on it.
To the French, thing's exotic was highly fashionable,
and when the first French ship from the orient
unloaded its costly cargo in 1700, tea was its
main attraction. Louis XIV considered the beverage
made out from the Chinese plant to be a sociable
and a beneficial drink, even for the healthy.
Tea in France was an unaffordable item for most,
and it remained so for a considerable length
of time. It was therefore the franchise of the
rich and wealthy. It was a sign of utmost distinction,
and it opened new avenues for the artisans to
exercise their talents in turning new designs
in tea services. The Frenchmen took their tea
from a silver teapot, in a cup of jade, with
a golden saucer on a lacquered table.
It was only during the nineteenth century that
the common man got a chance of tasting tea,
whilst in England at about the same time the
average man was drinking six cups a day, stretching
across England from the Royalty to the man in
the slums.
The widespread opening up of “tea salons”
during the latter part of the nineteenth century,
helped to promote the tea drinking habit. Tea
consumption in France is fast increasing and
it has doubled during the past three decades.
Every neighbourhood in Paris and other downtown
cities can boast of new and inviting tea rooms,
tempting the younger generation and getting
them hooked on to tea. In French, tea rooms
as distinct from café’s, was for
a long time the only public place that women
could frequent without endangering their reputation.
The habit of pouring milk in tea reportedly
started in France. In addition to enhancing
its taste, there is a practical reason for this
custom. It has been found out that pouring a
little cold milk in the cup prevents the scalding
tea from cracking fragile Chinese porcelain.
Americans Looked
For Convenience
Europe, Britain, Holland
and parts of northern Germany are the strongholds
of tea. At a cursory glance, it would appear
that nations that have ports facing the Atlantic
and being pioneers of world trade had acquired
the tea habit long before others. Those with
Mediterranean ports and enjoying trading ties
with Africa and Arabia preferred coffee.
It is not too fanciful, so says P. J. Banyard
in his book “The Tea Trade” to connect
the introduction of tea and coffee to the West
with the advance of Western civilisation and
technical accomplishment. Certainly the rising
consumption of tea in Britain runs parallel
with rising achievement as a society. The truth
is that Homo sapiens needs a liquid intake of
less than a gallon a day but can manage a great
deal more. When this intake was supplied by
intoxicants of varying strengths, the general
efficiency must have been impaired. It is now
difficult for most of us to imagine a world
in which the only alternative to water was milk
or alcohol. It now gives an indication of the
changes brought about by the introduction of
tea and coffee.
Had it not been for the Boston Tea Party, the
Americans would have gone the same way the English
immigrants presented the “way with tea”
to the new world. The glamour of tea drinking
was upheld when it was first introduced to America
by the Dutch, with the upper classes organising
regular tea parties, using their silver tea
pots and porcelain tea services, all taken across
with them from Holland. It became a device to
social success, and an occasion for the elite
families of Philadelphia and Boston to meet.
New Amsterdam made tea in the Dutch manner.
A good woman offering hospitality would serve
several kinds to suit the tastes of the guests.
They never used milk, but they sometimes offered
saffron and peach leaves for flavouring. Sugar
was served in powdered and in lump from which
they nibbled it or put into the tea. They indulged
in the childlike habit of sucking tea through
a lump of sugar. When New Amsterdam became New
York, they followed the British way.
During the early eighteen century, the more
modest types drank bitter tea with butter and
salt, whilst others preferred Chinese tea scented
with saffron or gardenia petals. America soon
became a dumping ground for British imported
teas, and a promising source for raising funds
to fight the French and the Indian wars.
Tea came under heavy taxation. The patriotic
reaction to this levy was unbelievable. On 16th
December 1773 loyalist from St Andrews Masonic
Lodge Boston, all dressed as Red Indians threw
overboard three hundred and forty chests of
tea into the sea. This ultimately led to the
battle of Bunker Hill and the declaration of
Independence in 1776. So were the violent reactions
that even the tea pots took a new design, to
be labelled as “patriotic teapot.”
Americans are said to pay more attention to
leaf appearance than to cup quality. There is
a great lack of uniformity in the tea consumption
patterns throughout the country. Some sections
are heavy drinkers, and others very light, depending
on racial descent. They are mostly seasonal
drinkers, like the Southern States, which only
consume little tea in winter, but offset this
be liberal consumption of iced tea in summer.
Citizens of the United States, who were initially
coffee drinkers, developed two new taste habits
after tea was introduced into the country; one
is iced tea, and the other tea bags.
The introduction of iced tea to the American
market, and its ultimate success as a beverage
came its way by a splendid stroke of luck. At
the St. Louis World Fair in 1904 an attempt
was made by Richard Blechymden, yet another
Englishman working for the Indian tea producers,
to wean the Americans from the habit of drinking
green tea to black Indian tea.
The conventional way of drinking tea scorching
hot, he found out, did not appeal to the Americans.
In absolute despondency, Richard poured his
tea into glasses and added ice. The immediate
response from the public was most favourable
and success was assured. For the Americans --
a new drink was born.
Today, iced tea is the most popular hot weather
beverage, and considered the most effective
thirst-quencher in the humid heat of the American
summer. Conventional tea addicts however say,
perhaps with some justice, that the flavoured
iced tea brew does not taste like tea at all,
but it is how they like it. Some of the Alpine
guides mix it with red wine to make what they
claim to be the best thirst-quencher and reviver
combined. This has lead to a booming trade in
“instant tea,” a freeze-dried powder
to be dissolved in cold water.
The use of tea bags has also enjoyed a long
history in America. It was in 1904 that an accident
revolutionised the tea drinking habits of the
Americans. According to records, Thomas Sullivan,
an enterprising tea and coffee merchant in New
York sent a few samples of his tea to his customers
in small hand-sewn silk bags, as this was found
to be less expansive.
Orders soon began to pour in, but to Sullivan’s
great surprise, they were all for tea packaged
in little bags. The customers had found out
that by pouring the hot water over the bags
they could make tea with less effort.
Today, expensive and elaborate machines turn
out millions of tea bags every day to supply
the American market, where half the tea consumed
is in the form of tea bags. The success of the
bag lies in the convenience afforded to the
housewife. With the tea bag, there is no spent
leaf to wash out of the pot, or remove from
the sink.
The English however feel that the tea bags lend
it to abuse, particularly in hotels and restaurants,
whose proprietors and staff are seldom of tea
drinking ancestry. There is also the tendency
for some tea baggers to reduce the volume of
tea in the bag. Despite all these shortcomings,
the average tea drinker should find nothing
amiss with the cup of tea brewed from a tea
bag provided the tea is made in the normal way
by pouring boiling water on to the tea bags
in a tea pot -- provided enough tea bags are
used.
The American standard is to use one bag per
person and one for the pot. Tea drinking after
all is a habit and deviations from the conventional
methods, as ordained by the British, are bound
to occur in keeping with personal preferences.
After all, there is no universal method of brewing
tea. In the use of tea bags, it is the convenience
that all appreciate, and this could outweigh
the extra cost involved in its purchase.
Despite the convenience factor, there are certain
disagreements regarding the use of tea bags.
Delicious tea can be obtained from tea bags,
but bad brewing habits tend to combine forces
with a generally mediocre product to make the
delicious tea the exception rather than the
rule. When tea is brewed in the conventional
manner, the brewer can see the leaves.
They can enjoy the differences in shape, colour
and texture, the golden or the coppery shafts
of the tippy teas, the tightly curled long strands
of an orange pekoe, and the greyish greens of
a delicate gun powder.
The tea in a tea bag, in a sense is mutilated
beyond recognition further hidden by the filter
paper. In this instance, let the consumer decide
in which form he would like to have his tea
brewed.
Today, the American consumer is a victim of
an assault from all sides with messages and
advertisements via Television, Radio, Newspapers,
and magazines, Billboards, and the latest the
internet and the e-mail, and their personal
computers. As mentioned by Peter Goggi at the
last International Tea convention held in Sri
Lanka, tea can be sold to everyone at different
life stages, day stages or mood stages.
Tea answers more “need stages” than
any other beverage. “Just to clarify”
he said, “Need States are defined by a
combination of consumers’ motivations
and feelings when selecting beverages, such
as, their emotional state, their physical state,
and desired product benefits. They can be further
described by time of day, who they want to consume
with, what they are doing, etc. In the case
of tea, whether hot or cold, sweetened or plain,
tea provides a lift, a calming, a soothing,
and a restoring sense of self.”
The scope seems unlimited, and tea is poised
to fit various needs in the future. They need
products that display alien, and unique textures
and appearances, perhaps flavoured with fruit
of healthy vegetable tastes. People today are
seeking verity in colour, taste, texture and
size. In short, tea has become the obvious choice
at home, school and workplace, as a hot, cold,
iced, RTD, green, flavoured, or Oolong. Tea
is indeed the choice for the future, and is
unfolding fast in America.
The Japanese Developed
It To A Fine Art
The tea drinking habit
was introduced from China almost 1,000 years
ago, using only green tea as the base, and served
throughout each meal.
In Japan, tea drinking has been glorified into
an aesthetic cult based on worship of the beautiful
in the daily routine of life. The five hundred
years old ceremony, Cha-no-yu is considered
Japan’s greatest contribution to tea,
with its elaborate ritual, but with simplicity
and austerity as its keynote, has exercised
a powerful influence on Japanese art and culture.
It was left for the Japanese to develop the
tea ceremony to its logical conclusion. “Everything
is symbolic of something else,” so says
J. M. Scott in his book The Tea Story.
“The tea room is a place apart, approached
by a path which however short, represents an
escape from the troubled world. The door is
only three feet high, so the room is entered
in the attitude of humanity. The room is small
without ornaments, except for symbolically arranged
flowers to encourage simplicity and peace. Periods
of silence or of a prescribed form of conversation
are required. The tea is prepared just so and
drunk so while seated cross-legged on a mat,
every movement being significant. It is said
to take three years to perfect this ritual,
far more complicated than wine tasting. After
drinking, the host deprecates the tea, saying
how poor the tea is. A Westerner would be inclined
to agree with him, for it is in fact tea-powder
whisked up into something reminiscent of pea-soup
with a thing like a shaving brush made of finely
split bamboo. When it is all over the host kneels
at the door, bowing his head in humble gratitude
for the polite expression of his departing guests.”
This sums all the ritualistic and sacramental
manifestations that go into the correct performance
of the tea ceremony.
Some of the rules for the ceremony written about
600 years ago, but still represent the highest
ideals of the ceremony as it is practised today.
1. It is important on entering the ceremony
to have not only a clean face and hands, but
chiefly a clean heart.
2. The host must meet the guests and conduct
them in. If he is too poor to the give them
the tea and necessaries for the ceremony, or
if the eatables are tasteless, the guest can
leave at once.
3. When the water makes a sound as the wind
in the fir trees, the bell rings and the guests
enters the waiting room.
4. It is forbidden, since long ago, to speak
in or out of the room of anything worldly, including
politics, and especially scandal.
5. No guest or host may, in any true, pure meeting,
flatter either by word or deed.
This ceremony is conducted in a specially constructed
room abbreviated to suggest a purified barrenness.
No more than five guests are entertained at
a time. They enter through a low door after
removing all footwear. Every gesture of the
person who performs the ceremony is prescribed.
He then prepares the charcoal fire, by sprinkling
incense on it. The guests then retire to the
garden until the water in the iron kettle boils.
At the sound of a gong, the guests are brought
back, followed by the host, carrying with him
all the utensils required for the ceremony.
From a stoneware tea jar, the host takes three
heaping tea scoops per person of finely powdered
green tea, places it in the tea bowl made of
pottery and pours boiling water from the kettle
with a ladle. He then stirs the tea in the bowl
with a bamboo whisk. This is done until the
tea in the bowl froths at the top. The chief
guest is given the first choice to savour the
contents. He drinks it in three and a half sip,
making a sucking noise, in compliment to the
tea, and passes to the next. The host drinks
the tea last, and the ceremony ends with much
bowing and expressions of polite thanks on the
part of the guests, and humble apologies on
the part of the host, for the inadequacy of
the entertainment.
The ceremonies are still conducted, but confined
mostly to the monasteries and among a small
minority of the elite tea masters and their
acolytes. This practice is encouraged. These
classes are mostly followed by young women who
were anxious to acquire these skills in the
tea ceremony as it enhances their chances of
marriage.
It must be recalled that the Japanese and the
Chinese leaned the use of the tea drink from
aboriginal tribesman of the hill districts,
who prepared the beverage by boiling the raw
green leaves of the wild tea tree. This was
later developed into a socio-religious rite
of exquisite refinement.
Recent modernisation trends are fast waning
the younger generation away from old customs,
and green tea is mostly drunk in the mornings
just to get a good start for the day. It is
fast losing its sophistication and becoming
an everyday drink. The latest craze is for flavoured
and scented blends.
It is the wish of the older generation that
the Japanese youth will gradually rediscover
the “way of tea,” as tea has remained
deeply entrenched in contemporary Japanese culture,
and it is the only country in the world to elect
a “Miss Tea” each year to promote
each year’s tea harvest.
Russia Evolved
A Unique Process
Another as old and as famous
a tea drinking nation as England, is Russia.
They discovered tea in 1638, and adopted their
own style of drinking tea, which centres round
the “samovar." It all started with
the ambassador Vassily Starkov receiving of
a gift of one hundred and forty pounds of tea
from a Mongol Prince. Although its success was
instantaneous at the highest echelons of power,
it took a further two centuries for it to become
a common drink in the land of vodka. Tea arrived
from China by caravan, and it was not until
the mid-eighteen century that tea was able to
penetrate the interior of Russia.
The spread of tea was accompanied by the invention
of the samovar. It is not a kind of tea pot
that the western world adopted as a convenient
method of brewing tea. It could be regarded
more a tea kettle. The samovar, which acts as
a water boiler is made out of either copper,
brass, or silver. The brew is made with boiling
water drawn from this apparatus.
Before the samovar is brought to the table,
the boiler is filled with tea, and lighted charcoal
placed in the vertical pipe. Tea is made in
a small tea pot that is placed on top of the
samovar. When the tea has drawn its full strength,
the host fills about one quarter of each glass,
from the pot and the balance from the samovar.
The glasses have silver holders with handles.
A liberal quantity of sugar and a flavouring
of lemon is added, but no milk or cream is used.
Sugar is rarely added to the tea by the peasant
classes, but instead taken in the mouth. With
each mouthful of tea, a spoonful of jam is sometimes
taken in place of lemon and, during winter times,
rum is added as a protection against influenza.
“Russian Tea," for many years, meant
Chinese brick tea imported into Russia. Being
connoisseurs of tea for over three centuries,
they have acquired their own style of tea drinking.
It is their eating habits that have driven the
Russians to become heavy drinkers of tea. Their
breakfast is light, but they combine their lunch
and dinner into one enormous meal that is eaten
between three and six. During mid-meals, tea
keeps them going.
Tea rooms or Chainayas, as referred to in Russia,
could be found in all commercial areas, and
they are heavily patronised during all hours
of day and night. For those who want to brew
their own tea, boiling water is provided free
of charge, at all railway stations.
They eat a piece of unrefined sugar or a spoonful
of fruit jam that melts in the mouth when mixed
with a sip of strong bitter tea. “Ecstasy”
wrote Pushkin, “is a glass full of tea
and a piece of sugar in the tea.” To the
Rusians, tea has remained a priceless commodity,
and they have been supporting the top-end of
the market both in Colombo and Calcutta.
In Bokhara, a Soviet state, the natives carry
their tea in small bags, and when he is thirsty
for a cup of tea, he looks for the nearest tea
booth, and has the proprietor brew it for him.
Tea is rarely purchased at these booths, the
owner is only paid for his skill at brewing
the tea.
Tibetans Take Their
Tea Filled To The Brim
Salted tea with goat’s
milk is the standard springtime drink of the
shepherds occupying the Himalayan pastures.
Further, Tibet is the only place in the world
where tea is considered a sacred offering, but
it also remains as an essential element of local
hospitality as in China. When served to a visitor,
the bowels are filled to the brim to ward off
evil.
The Tibetans still follow another unique method
of making their tea. Their source of supply
had always been China, and it came as brick
tea. The leaves for its manufacture are carefully
gathered during June July and August, from terraced
mountain side tea fields, in the district of
Ya-Chou. Preparation of brick tea was an elaborate
operation. The selected leaves were fired in
heated pans for a few minutes and then spread
out for sun-drying. After this basic function,
they were packed in loose bales and sold to
agents of the brick tea manufactures.
Upon reaching the factories, the sacks of tea
were allowed to stand and foment for a few days,
after which the leaves and the stems spread
out and picked over into different grades by
persons and children.
They often selected three leaf grades, but there
was always room for the fourth, which consisted
of the oldest and the toughest leaves, chopped
up branches and sweepings. Thereafter, each
grade steamed separately over a boiler. When
it gets soft, it was treated with leaf dust
and a mixture of thick rice water. It was then
rammed into moulds.
An individual brick measured eleven inches by
four inches with a thickness of one inch, and
weighed six pounds. They were then set aside
in racks to dry for about three days and then
wrapped in paper bearing the manufacture's name.
Four bricks were packed together, end to end,
in a bamboo frame, and after the coarse cakes
had been tucked in at the ends to prevent damage
to bricks, they were ready for transport.
The standard form of transport was on the back
of a coolly, who could carry up to 400 pounds.
These consignments of brick tea had to be carried
to a distribution point situated at Ta-Chien-Lu.
This journey had to be undertaken through difficult
terrain and required about twenty days to cover
the distance of 150 miles.
The preparation of the tea was equally fascinating.
Small particles are chipped off the brick, and
placed in a pot containing cold water. The water
is then boiled for several hours until the infusion
is virtually black.
A little salt or soda is added, and the liquid
strained into an upright cylinder. A large slice
of rancid yak then added and mixed vigorously
to form a thick broth, and then served out in
small wooden bowls.
It is said that the Tibetans usually drank thirty
to forty bowls of this “hot buttered tea”
per day. To Tibet go the honour of holding the
world’s largest tea party. In 1852 more
than 4,000 Lamas consumed cauldrons of tea in
holy silence at a party given for them by a
wealthy pilgrim.
Britishers Introduced
“Tea Time” To India
From among the wild growing
tea trees, Assam produced the first Indian tea,
which was sold in London in 1839. During the
early days of tea planting, living conditions
both to the planter and the labourer would have
been dreadful. Nevertheless, the European planters
did not shirk their responsibilities by not
teaching the Indians the true way of observing
tea time.
The planters enjoyed the luxury of having his
tea accompanied by spice buns' cakes and sandwiches.
The unfortunate labourer however could not afford
such luxuries, but nevertheless enjoyed his
cut of tea in his own style.
India is a foremost producer of tea but her
position as an exporter has suffered considerably
in the recent past. India has established herself
as one of the largest tea drinking countries
in the world. The consumption of tea in the
country however is discouraged, as India is
determines to maintain her exports at least
at a reasonable level.
Tea is a very popular drink in the North, and
small tea kiosks line the streets. Patronage
at these way-side tea shops is very high, and
you will find dozens of people seated on small
benches savouring the hotly brewed tea. The
tea is served very hot, with plenty of sugar
and milk. Hurried customers are often seen pouring
the tea on to the saucer to cool it before drinking
it. Tea serves as a meal to the plantation labourers.
Bread dipped in hot sweetened plain tea helps
to survive instant hunger.
In more public places such as railway stations,
tea is kept hot in large kettles and served
in small clay cups that are broken after use.
That is done to ensure that the cup had not
been used previously by a low cast person.
To the Indians, a warm cup of tea favours human
contact, and provides the spark needed to make
an acquaintance and inaugurate a bond of friendship.
Chinese As Connoisseurs
Of Tea
The Chinese, who are regarded
as the inventors of the tea drinking habit,
adopted their own inexplicable style that has
remained with them even today. It is strange
that this elegant manner of drinking tea has
not been followed by any other tea- drinking
nation in the world. As connoisseurs of tea
for many centuries, the Chinese way of drinking
tea is considered unique.
They do not use teapot as a rule, but simply
infuse the tea with water kept much below the
boiling point in the very cups from which they
are drunk. It is consumed without milk or sugar.
The cups that hold the tea do not have handles.
Once the cups are filled with water they are
covered. This resembles an inverted saucer that
is used to strain the tea.
The partaking of the liquid from the cup has
been perfected to a fine art. The covered cup
is raised gently to the mouth, and with the
fingers of the hand holding the cup, the lid
is carefully raised by the forefinger, just
enough to permit the tea to flow into the mouth
as the cup is tilted. This whole procedure is
carried out with the minimum of fuss and noise,
and with grace and charm.
Tea is drunk in China by high and low. It is
taken at all occasions, and all hours of the
day and night. It is served on receiving guests,
making purchases, transacting business and at
all ceremonies. For the Chinese, tea has always
been more than the sum of its chemical and mineral
components, and much more than just a hot beverage.
To them it is a symbol of hospitality and entertainment,
whether this occurs in the home or in the more
formal atmosphere of a restaurant or hotel.
Tea has traditionally been closely associated
with good taste, sophistication, and genteel
society, as well as being an integral part of
everyday life of the ordinary person.
Invariably, one’s manners and social standing
are tested by the way the tea is drunk. Drinking
the whole of the cup at one time is considered
rude. The host plays an important part in the
tea ceremony, and is expected politely to invite
each of the guests in turn, to partake in the
drink. The host drinks his tea last.
It is a common practice among the upper class
of Chinese to add dried flower blossoms into
the cup of tea to make the infusion brighter.
The most universal custom among the Chinese
in higher societies who drink black tea, is
to keep it in sealed earthen jars for a couple
of years before use. In the western world however,
an old tea will not have any trade value, and
would be described as “old and flat."
The equivalent of the Continental tea cafes
is found in most Chinese cities today. They
provide a convenient place for public resort.
Shanghai alone can boast of over four hundred
such tea houses, all ready to cater to the needs
of the different groups of customers that frequent
these places at different times of the day.
In the modern home or business office, tea is
brewed in teapots and poured into individual
cups, often without handles. Due to foreign
influence, teahouses along the coast usually
follow the western style, and tea is served
according to the western style, with proper
cups and saucers.
Strong tea is preferred
in New Zealand
Tea is another beverage
that is heavily consumed in New Zealand, and
accounts for almost seven cups a day. They follow
much the same way of brewing tea, but a fixation
on tea bags can be identified now. Those living
in remote areas known as “black blocks”
are known to follow some way off methods of
brewing their tea. They stew the tea leaves
for a strong cup of tea. Plenty of sugar is
used.
After his breakfast, his “billy can”
a standard implement used by the bush man on
the sheep farms, is left to simmer. When he
returns to his tent in the evening, he rekindles
the fire, warms up the black brew that has steeped
all day, and drinks it with the utmost delight.
In the more urban areas, tea is served along
with a pot of hot water. This permits the strength
of the brew to be adjusted to suit the taste
of the individual. The is generally brewed strong
and taken with milk. Bed tea is served in a
large cup, the size of an English breakfast
cup in comparison, usually accompanied by a
piece of buttered bread, or a biscuit. Another
similar cup follows breakfast, and the morning
tea at eleven O clock, regardless of whether
at home or in office, has become a necessity,
and it has become a feature and developed as
a part of their culture. Lunch is followed with
tea, and at four O clock tea is served again,
at home, in hotels, restaurants, tea-rooms,
and offices. The last feast for the day, which
is referred to as supper, is only an apology
for another cup of tea.
Bush-man stew tea
in Australia
The workers of the great
Australian sheep farms in the black blocks,
the bush men of the wild-open spaces, who indulge
in four meat-fed meals, are said to consume
the strongest kind of tea at every possible
occasion.
In the city's tea is brewed more or less in
the same manner as the British. In many homes
and in most hotels, tea is served seven times
a day -- before breakfast, at breakfast, at
eleven o'clock in the forenoon, at lunch, at
four o'clock in the evening, at dinner and just
prior to retiring. It is customary for all offices
to serve tea to their employers at least twice
a day.
British way of preparing tea is followed in
the urban areas, but in the black blocks the
bush-man makes it differently. A handful of
tea is thrown into his smoke blackened tin can,
as he crawls of his bunt in the morning.
Water is added and made to stew. Once breakfast
is over, the can is left to simmer, and when
he returns to the cabin at nightfall, he rekindles
the fire, warms the black concoction that had
stewed all day, and drinks it with utmost enjoyment.
This ‘billy” can used by the bush-man
throughout the centuries has been given the
name of “Matilda” for reasons unknown.
Under this pet name it has been famed in an
almost a national song entitled “Waltzing
Matilda”
Canadians have
their tea light
Tea drinking is fast catching
up in Canada. Indian and Sri Lanka blends are
preferred, but a small quantity of Japanese
greens is imported for those in the lumber regions.
They follow very much the same way as the British,
but they extend a spoonful of tea for two cups,
and have it light. Further, their brewing time
is extended. The liquor is poured off the leaves
into another tea pot to serve. Tea is served
with all the meals commencing with breakfast,
and the last at bedtime. Lemon is usually taken
with tea, but some prefer it with cream and
sugar. The use of tea bags is on the rise.
The afternoon tea is gaining favour at the summer
resorts, and it is becoming a fashionable task
for ladies to be seen enjoying an afternoon
tea in the more exclusive departmental stores,
most stores are equipped with tea rooms, and
brisk business is carried out during winter.
Unlike in England, exclusive coffee shops are
seldom seen.
Tea drinking matured slowly in Sri Lanka
Although Sri Lanka had
been a pioneer in the cultivation of tea in
the world, the habit of tea drinking took a
long time to catch on with the general populace.
The Tea Propaganda Board vans were seen distributing
free tea at village gatherings in the days of
yore. They were often seen in the suburbs, publishing
the health giving properties of tea.
It took a long time for this fixation to spread,
but once the pleasing qualities were discovered,
tea drinking became a regular ingredient for
leisure. As much as the Russians discovered
the samovar for the easy dispensing of tea,
Sri Lanka is proud to have discovered their
own apparatus for the same use. Tea customs
in the small villages are less British.
During the initial stages, large copper containers
were used to carry sweetened plain tea to places
of gathering in the villages. It had a built
in fire-pot at the base to keep the tea warm.
Tea was served out through a long-necked spout,
into small glasses.
Next outfit that became very popular in the
tea kiosks out in the rural areas was the tea
boiler. A cluster of bananas in front of the
village shop identifies it as a tea boutique.
It was built on very much the same lines as
the Russian samovar. This large vessel containing
boiling water was usually of copper, heated
by charcoal in a metal pipe extending vertically
through its centre. Tea leaves are separately
brewed in a small tea pot placed on top of the
pipe, where it is kept hot. Tea is served in
small glasses, in the combination of a quarter
of the strong tea to three quarters of boiling
water from the boiler.
To the people working on the tea plantations,
tea is not only a drink, but goes to serve as
a meal. Bread is dipped in a strong solution
of sugared tea, and they gorge themselves in
this simple spread during mealtime. The average
villager relishes a cup or bowl of tea without
milk, but enjoys a little sugar on the palm,
which is licked with every sip of tea. More
often, jaggery, the coarse sugar of the coconut
palm is preferred. The leisure hours are spent
chatting with friends, sipping tea followed
with a chew of betel leaf, and this they have
found to be the best way to dispel fatigue and
tension.
For the elite, tea drinking habit was the natural
reaction to a foreign culture, which was imported
from England. It however had its own odd traits.
Except for breakfast, tea was never served with
meals, but when guests arrive, the silver service
is always available, and tea served in the typical
British way.
What for the future?
Tea has in no way completely
replaced alcoholic beverages, but it is fair
to say that the burden of refreshing in general
is mainly borne by tea. During the depression
of the 1930’s, the average British had
very few alternatives in their choice of a beverage.
For the poorest, it was beer or tea, and they
pinned their hopes on tea, with the result the
national consumption of tea increased to nine
pounds of tea per head per year.
Tea for a long time had been proclaimed a heath
drink. This remained so until about the mid
twentieth century, when suddenly the world remained
close-mouthed about tea’s intrinsic health
benefits. It was only during the latter part
of the last millennium that tea was once again
pushed to the forefront as a health drink.
After the Second World War, tea in Britain faced
stiff competition from a variety of sources,
particularly from the soft drink market. Fruit
juices and fizzy drinks soon became the popular
staples in American and British office and factory
canteens.
Tea like all other beverages has been put to
the test, but it is improbable that tea will
be lightly brushed aside. Unlike most other
beverages, tea is not taken mainly for its agreeable
taste, but on its effect upon its consumer.
It is a warming drink in cold weather, and a
cooling drink in the hot weather, as it has
the capacity to stimulate the blood vessels.
It provides various stimulants in happy combinations
to provide beneficial effects upon the inner
man.
Ample scientific research has gone into the
composition of tea, and they have now found
out that small quantities of caffeine and tannin
in tea formed an ideal partnership that gave
an immediate stimulation without any harmful
effects. It relieves fatigue and increases speed
and clearness of thought. Tea has much to offer,
and an opportunity exists today to address these
problems using tea’s emergence as a healthy
lifestyle product.
Today, extensive work is being carried out to
consider new motivations to stimulate the demand
for tea. During the past few years there has
been a noticeable world-wide increase in consumer
appreciation of a healthy lifestyle, and tea
fits superbly to this new concept in living.
Dietary habits are constantly changing in keeping
with known linkages between nutrition and health,
and the latest findings that tea contains certain
components that may help prevent heart disease
and some cancers.
Fortunately, considerable evidence is now emerging
that tea possesses many of the beneficial properties
regard to several areas of human health, the
most important of them all are the prevention
of heart disease, stroke and cancer, and the
promotion of oral health. Tea is now been accepted
as the suitable choice within a healthy lifestyle.